Painting doors to look like Wood
I finished up with a door painting project in which I painted two doors to look like wood. This first door was painted in the garage. This home is a new construction and the door was painted and then installed at a later date.
The first photo is the completed project.
The next photo is pretty revealing in that the base coat color was really that orange. I used a Sherwin Williams color called True Penny for the base coat. Then the first color of the wood grain is SW Terra Brun and the second and darker color brown for the wood grain is SW Black Bean. The photo below shows how I have taped off the door to get started on it. When I paint a door to look like wood I like to start from the inside panels and work outwards. The doors I painted where the over sized ones so I had to use a ladder to reach the top.
After I have created the wood grain I remove the tape. The white arrows show the area left on the panels I need to paint.
The next photo shows how I have taped those areas off.
You can see in the close up how the wood grain is coming along.
Both panels are complete in the next photo.
The next shot shows how I have painted in the wood grain on the outside trim piece with the first color brown. You can clearly see the difference between that step and the completed door.
This is the same area when done.
Again, the completed door painted to look like wood. Both sides where done in the same way.
I also painted the front door at this new home in the same way but with a different color scheme.
For the front door I used a SW color called Tatami Tan for the base coat color. Then the first color of the wood grain I used SW Java and the second and darker color I used Turkish Coffee (but ever so slightly).
After I finishing painting the doors to look like wood I applied a clear UV acrylic clear coat over them.
The first photo is the completed project.
The next photo is pretty revealing in that the base coat color was really that orange. I used a Sherwin Williams color called True Penny for the base coat. Then the first color of the wood grain is SW Terra Brun and the second and darker color brown for the wood grain is SW Black Bean. The photo below shows how I have taped off the door to get started on it. When I paint a door to look like wood I like to start from the inside panels and work outwards. The doors I painted where the over sized ones so I had to use a ladder to reach the top.
After I have created the wood grain I remove the tape. The white arrows show the area left on the panels I need to paint.
The next photo shows how I have taped those areas off.
You can see in the close up how the wood grain is coming along.
Both panels are complete in the next photo.
The next shot shows how I have painted in the wood grain on the outside trim piece with the first color brown. You can clearly see the difference between that step and the completed door.
This is the same area when done.
Again, the completed door painted to look like wood. Both sides where done in the same way.
I also painted the front door at this new home in the same way but with a different color scheme.
For the front door I used a SW color called Tatami Tan for the base coat color. Then the first color of the wood grain I used SW Java and the second and darker color I used Turkish Coffee (but ever so slightly).
After I finishing painting the doors to look like wood I applied a clear UV acrylic clear coat over them.
Absolutely gorgeous- thanks for posting the different steps. Thank you too for posting the colors you use- that can sometimes be the biggest problem.
ReplyDeleteDid you use a brush, if so what kind?
ReplyDeleteI use a 2 inch Wooster chinex thin angle brush for all the wood grain projects. I get it at Home Depot. Love the brush.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-Pro-2-in-Chinex-Thin-Angle-Sash-Brush-0H21210020/203193296
Thank you! To save people time from looking it up, I just want to say that it's a reasonably priced brush, nothing outrageous, as it's $11.78
DeleteSo you didnt use stains, just paint?
ReplyDeleteYes, that is correct. I only use paint and no stains.
DeleteWhat kind if brushes you used. Thank you
ReplyDeleteI use a Wooster 2 inch angled brush. They come in regular and thin and I always use the ones marked thin. I get them at Home Depot.
DeleteWhat are the brushes you used . and if I have a white door can this be don? Thank you.
ReplyDeleteYes, the door on this page was white when I started. That burnt orange color you see on the door was the base coat color I painted on the door before I started the wood grain process.
DeleteDid you thin the paints to get the stain look? Beautifully done!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment. Yes, I thin down the paint and sometimes pretty thin. Then the bristles on the brush creates the wood grain. It is the same process I use on the garage doors, which by the way I have a tutorial on.
DeleteWhere can I find the link for your tutorial? Thank you again!
ReplyDeletehttps://www.everythingicreate.com/p/garage-door-tutorial.html
DeleteIt's an ebook download but you can read all about it on this page. Thanks for asking.
nice information
ReplyDeleteThese are the best doors "painted to look like wood" that I have ever seen! It certainly shows your artistic talent and years of experience! I'm wondering if in thinning the paint if you thinned all 3 colors and if so, what did you use.... a paint thinner, or water? Does that method apply on both door colors?
ReplyDeleteI only use acrylic house paint so to thin I just use water for any thinning I do. Using the right brush goes a long way to getting a good wood grain look. I use a Wooster Thin China Bristle 2 inch angled brush. They come in standard thickness bristles or thin and you want the thin one. Basically using a dry brush technique for the grain. Pressing in against the surface will spread the bristles of the brush out and give you a great grain look.
DeleteThank you so much! While I doubt I'm the artist you are, I feel confident that I can do a nice job with having your instructions! I will try a practice piece to be sure I have the right technique before doing my front door! Thanks again!
DeleteYes I loveyour work! Please share how and what you use to thin the paint down?
ReplyDeletesee above.
DeleteWhat Sheen do you use for your base color and respective top coat wood colors? Also when you are finished do you use any type of clear coat? I love your work and I would like to try this technique on some doors that I gel stained that I'm not happy with the result.
DeleteSorry for the delay in answering I am traveling.
DeleteI always use a satin sheen, I personally prefer that and so do my clients. I use satin with paint and clear top coat I apply.
The top coat I use is called Masterclear from a company called Modern Masters. I get from Amazon. One quart will typically cover a double garage door. I use it on my entry doors also.
I hate to mention this but gel stain is an oil based product and if your doors are exterior they will crack and peel with gel stain on them. I know you don't want to hear that.
Only use water based acrylic or latex paint on your doors.
If the doors are interior make sure you do a light sanding and then prime before painting.
I hope this helps.
I forgot to mention that if your doors are interior I use a product I get from Home Depot called Varathane called Ultimate polyurethane water based. Only use water based!
DeleteWhat do you use Varathane for? What brand paint are you using? Do you have a step by step written tutorial?
DeleteI use the Varathane for the clear top coat. Always better to have a nice hard clear top coat on doors and kitchen cabinets. The Varathane I use on interior projects only. I use Modern Masters - Masterclear for exterior projects. The garage door tutorial - link top of page - using the exact same technique for interior and exterior entry doors.
DeleteCan you recommend any other brand of brush for this technique? I don't seem to be able to find the exact brush you recommend where I live. There is no Home Depot anywhere nearby. Is chinex just the wooster brand name for polyester? Your doors look amazing! One other question...the door I hope to paint like yours is an exterior door, north side under the eave of the house. If I use exterior satin paint, would I need a clear topcoat? Thanks for any advice you have to offer!
ReplyDeleteI like the Wooster Chinex brush because of the bristles. They are a natural horse hair or something. The nylon bristles do not work as well for me. So there are other brands that use the chinex bristles and possibly you could find one of those. You most likely would not need a topcoat if the door gets no or very little sun. The reason I like a topcoat is for keeping the door clean from finger prints, etc. They are easy to clean with a clear coat on them. Hope this helps.
DeleteDid you thin the top coat as well...so to not cover your wood grain look underneath it?
ReplyDeleteThe top clear coat is totally clear and does not cover anything beneath it. Hope this helps.
DeleteWhat's the drying time between coats?
ReplyDeleteBecause I live in FL, where it's hot most of the year, the paint dries fairly fast but one of my main tools is a hairdryer. I can't really paint the doors without one. Where it takes a coat to dry in an hour, with a hair dryer it takes a couple of minutes, literally just a couple of minutes.
DeleteHave you ever painted a Masonite/ composite door a dark walnut or espresso color. If so, could you please share the process and paint colors. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteYes, I have painted some masonite doors before. For a really dark door I have used the Sherwin Williams color Java as a base coat and then for the wood grain I use a mix of SW Turkish Coffee and Black at about 1:1. For a dark walnut but not really dark I use SW Toasty as a base, then use SW Java as the first coat of wood grain and then SW Black Bean as the second and darker coat.
DeleteI have a tutorial that I sell for $10.00 on how to paint a garage door to look like wood. I use the exact same technique to paint house doors. You can find a link to that tutorial at the top of the page. I hope this helps.
Good Afternoon,
ReplyDeleteI bought your tutorial for the garage doors and am gathering all the supplies. I have been looking for the Glidden Gripper primer and am having trouble finding it. Home Dept said the PPG Gripper is the same product but doesn't have as good of reviews online. I went to Sherwin Williams and they suggested using their Extreme Bond Primer. Do you have any thoughts on that product? Have you switched your go to Primer since publishing your tutorial?
Thank you!
Yes, PPG did buy the Glidden Gripper. I started using BullsEye 123 water based primer made by Zinsser. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowe's and it has great ratings from everywhere. It comes in a grey tone also. Hope this helps.
DeleteRemember that prep is very important, meaning clean the door well.
DeleteThis is beautiful! I’m considering trying a light color “wood” look on an interior door to finish a sort of coastal colored bedroom. I’m curious to know what is the purpose of taping off those particular sections? Is it to paint in a different direction? I saw the tape pattern on the garage door and have the same questions.
ReplyDeleteThe reason to tape is when you are painting in the wood grain in any particular direction, the tape will give you a grain that looks like that particular section of wood was cut perfectly square. When you paint you start on the tape and end on the tape and you will have no start and stop looking areas. It's the only way to archive it. This post here will give you a better idea of what I am talking about https://www.everythingicreate.com/2013/07/faux-paint-entry-door-to-look-like-wood.html
DeleteHope this helps.
I am definitely interested in your tutorial. I want to paint my steps to look like oak. What paint colors should I use?
ReplyDeleteI have had good luck using a Sherwin Williams color called Tatami Tan for the base and then using SW Java for the wood grain color. Hope this helps. By the way when painting steps you have to seal well. I use a product you can get at Home Depot called Varathane waterbased for floors.
Delete